Sunday, December 26, 2010
Only Pure H2 gas enter engine air intake while O2 gas were release to atmosphere.
No need ECU tuning anymore....Currently under testing.
Friday, August 13, 2010
The passivation process removes any unwanted metal ion deposits or residues from the stainless steel/any drycell surface
At one time nitric acid was used, but that had many drawbacks and would for our purposes destroy the cell plates.
Citric acid uses a different process, is very safe, cheap and has no after process problems. It can be disposed of without any environmental effects and is safe to handle (all unlike nitric acid)
The easiest way to passivated your cell plates is to finish building the cell, making sure to use the sanding process before assembly (cross hatch scoring with sand paper)
After assembly,then simply fill the cell fully .
Amount of usage:25g per 2~3 liters of water soak the drycell for 1~3 hours to descale,if the drycell is heavily scaled, (after 10000km)soak it overnight for 8~10 hours the concentration may increase to 25g per liter of water.
flush with distilled or demineralised water.
Suitable to clean Titanium cell, SS cell, Super Alloy Nickel cell
*The citric acid is not suitable for cleaning iron,bronze ,aluminum,brass,gunmetal, etc. Remove any bronze connector if any before the cleaning process.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
The HHO Cooler must be fit in front of car radiator .Of course the Drycell system work well without the HHO Cooler,however one must take into account the heat create by the engine room ,& considering the fact that in heavy busy traffic .It were be the MUST to keep Drycell system under 50 Celsius degree all the time & with Stable Amp Current .
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
• This EFIE Is not intended to be used as a gas saver by itself . It should only be used with the introduction of HHO gas or other octane boosters to keep exhaust emissions within the EPA standards.
• This ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTOR ENHANCER device is experimental and by use of this device and suggested instructions,you assume all liabilities and release seller of any all liabilities associated with the use of these instructions and EFIE experiment device.
• Do not lean the engine too much because you can damage your engine or make the engine stall and cut off.It is better to have a rich air to fuel mixture than it is to have too lean.
• Make sure you Turn Off HHO device when engine is not running.A build up/storage of HHO gas should never be allowed as it is very dangerous and extremely explosive.
• If you are not experienced in electronics and mechanical devices,Please ask for help from someone who has experience.
• Make good wire splice connections that are well insulated and keep wires away from sharp surfaces and use plenty of tie wraps.
LOCATE SENSORS & WIRING:
You will need to locate yours car's O2 sensor(s).
You may only have one pre-cat O2 sensor .
Single exhaust cars usually have only one O2 sensor and dual exhausts usually have two pre-cat O2 sensors.
You do not connect to O2 sensor that are downstream of the catalytic converter.
O2 SENSOR(S) CONNECTIONS:
COLOR MATCHING by 1,2,3,4 wire O2 sensors:
|WIRES of O2 SENSOR||STOCK||ACTION||STOCK||ACTION||STOCK||ACTION||STOCK||ACTION|
|signal||blue||contact here||white||contact here||green||contact here||black||contact here|
LINK TO NARROW BAND O2 WIRING DIAGRAMS:
On a Narrow band sensor there will be 1 to 4 wires, two are for the heater, one for the ground and the forth for the ECU sensor wire.The ECU wire is the one you need to locate and verify that it has fluctuating between approximately 0.2 v to 0.8 volt(200mv~800mv)
IF YOU CAN NOT VERIFY THIS; DO NOT CONTINUE AS YOU MAY HAVE A WIDE BAND O2 SENSOR AND THIS EFIE WILL NOT WORK ON WIDE BAND O2 SENSORS.
WE NEED TO FIND THE O2 SENSOR WIRE THAT GOES TO THE ECU. TO FIND IT, YOU CAN USE A SEWING NEEDLE OR PIN AND PUSH THROUGH THE WIRE(S) INSULATION. CONNECT THE PIN TO THE POSITIVE LEAD OF A VOLT METER LEAD AND CONNECT THE NEGATIVE LEAD OF THE VOLT METER TO ENGINE GROUND.
WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, YOU WILL NEED A DIGITAL VOLT METER OR A VERY HIGH IMPEDANCE ANALOG METER TO LOCATE THE WIRE THAT FLUCTUATES BETWEEN ~0.2 AND 0.8 VOLTS.
THIS IS THE WIRE YOU WILL CUT. TAG THE BLUE WIRE HERE CONNECT IT TOGETHER WITH CONNECTOR SENSOR SIDE & TO ECU WIRE SIDE
THE BROWN WIRE ARE THE 12V + & THE GREEN WIRE ARE THE 12V-
OPERATIONAL CHECK OUT: WHEN THE EFIE POWER IS OFF, THE ENGINE RETURNS TO FACTORY SETTINGS. YOU WILL NEED TO MONITOR O2 VOLTAGE TO SET THE O2 EFIES. TURN ADJUSTABLE POT TO THE FULL RICH/ORIGINAL SETTING POSITIONS.
START ENGINE AND LET ENGINE RUN 5 MINUTES TO WARM UP THE O2 SENSOR(S). CONNECT THE POSITIVE LEAD OF A VOLT METER TO THE BLUE WIRE CONNECTOR AND THE NEGATIVE LEAD OF THE VOLT METER TO ENGINE GROUND TO MONITOR FLUCTUATING VOLTS. WITH ENGINE RUNNING AND EFIE POWERED, YOU ADD O2 VOLTS BY TURNING THE ADJUSTABLE POT OF THE EFIE ;
YOU SHOULD SEE THE LOW VOLTS GO HIGHER. KEEP TURNING THE ADJUSTABLE POT UNTIL THE LOW VOLTS DO NOT FALL BELOW 0.15 VOLTS. IF YOU GO ABOVE 0.3 VOLTS ON THE LOW SIDE, THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT MAY COME ON. FOR SOME CARS YOU CAN EVEN GO HIGHER ON VOLTS BUT DON’T GO TO HIGH AS YOU MAY DAMAGE ENGINE BY RUNNING TOO LEAN. WAIT ONE MINUTE OR SO TO SEE IF ANY ENGINE HESITATION CAN BE DETECTED. IF THE ENGINE HESITATES, THE AIR TO FUEL MIXTURE IS TOO LEAN SO YOU SHOULD TURN THE ADJUSTABLE POT TO RICHEN THE MIXTURE AND LOWER THE VOLTS
. EVERY ECU IS DIFFERENT AND YOU WILL NEED TO LEARN WHAT GIVES THE BEST PERFORMANCE. WHEN THE POWER IS OFF, THE ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM WILL GO BACK OEM. YOU CAN ALSO TURN THE EFIE OFF BY TURNING POTENTIOMETERS TO RICHEN AND RETURN ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM BACK OEM.
IF YOU GET THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT: WITH IGNITION SWITCH OFF, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL AT LEAST 10 SECS. RECONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL AND ADJUST THE EFIES AGAIN BUT BE MORE CONSERVATIVE. IT IS A LEARNING EXPERIENCE BUT YOU WILL GET THE HANG OF IT.
1. If the engine is fitted with two precat oxygen sensors in each bank before the catalytic converter, you will need two EFIE units.
2. If the sensors are positioned in line you have to wire up the chip to the prior sensor only.
3.Some car may vary in wire color of the Narrowband sensor check & re-check the signal wire have voltage readings constantly fluctuating between 0~1 volt.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Monday, May 3, 2010
We are the one of the site that tell you how to DIY the HHO cell.
Currently we prepare all the relevant detail from our R&D team and the information on how to built the HHO cell step by step were be soon disclose to the Public.And how to built the simple Efie ,Simple Map sensor enhancer & the simple PWM
Map/Maf sensor enhancer
Monday, April 26, 2010
An automotive oxygen sensor, also known as an O2 sensor, lambda probe, lambda sensor, or EGO (exhaust gas oxygen) sensor, is a small sensor inserted into the exhaust system of a petrol engine to measure the concentration of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas to allow an electronic control unit (ECU) to control the efficiency of the combustion process in the engine. In most modern automobiles, these sensors are attached to the engine's exhaust manifold to determine whether the mixture of air and gasoline going into the engine is rich (too much fuel) or lean (too little fuel).
This information is sent to the engine management ECU computer, which adjusts the mixture to give the engine the best possible fuel economy and lowest possible exhaust emissions.
Since the air/fuel ratio in injected up-to-date vehicles is regulated by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and most factory ECUs are set to maintain a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio; this is known as a stoichiometric fuel mix, user is unable to trim manually or mechanically this ratio as by early models. If too much oxygen is detected, the ECU thinks the mixture is too lean, and delivers more gas, if less oxygen is sensed, the ECU thinks the mixture is too rich and injects less gas to the engine.
5-WIRE WIDEBAND OXYGEN SENSORS
|5-wire so called wideband oxygen sensors are more complex than standard zirconia sensors. |
A variation on the zirconia sensor, called the 'wideband' sensor, was introduced by Robert Bosch in 1994 but nowadays is used in only a few vehicles. It is based on a planar zirconia element, but also includes an electrochemical gas pump. An electronic circuit containing a feedback loop controls the gas pump current to keep the output of the electrochemical cell constant, so that the pump current directly indicates the oxygen content of the exhaust gas. This sensor eliminates the lean-rich cycling inherent in narrow-band sensors, allowing the control unit to adjust the fuel delivery and ignition timing of the engine much more rapidly.
The wideband zirconia sensor is used in stratified fuel injection systems, and is also used in diesel engines to satisfy the serious EURO and ULEV emission limits.
The ECM is watching the polarity and reference voltage. A value greater than 1.00 indicates a lean air/fuel ration; conversely a value less than 1.00 indicates a rich air/fuel ratio. At idle the lambda value will typically fluctuate between .90 and 1.00. The advantage to this is the fact that the pumping current can be monitored constantly for better AFR control whereas before we had the lag time between samples. Trends in the AFR can be monitored closer than ever giving us cleaner air and better mileage. So to put in a thumbnail sketch, the wide band O2 sensor is a conventional switching sensor combined with an oxygen pump. O2 is pumped into or out of the exhaust sample chamber in order to produce it's 450mv.
The ECM supplies a pumping voltage to the ion conductive material that separates the exhaust gas sample chamber and the exhaust stream. As the pumping voltage, and thus the pumping current, increases or decreases, as well as changes polarity, oxygen ions will be moved from the exhaust stream through the ion conductive material into the exhaust gas sample chamber.
Ions may also be moved from the exhaust gas sample chamber through the ion conductive material back into the exhaust stream. The ECM monitors the pumping voltage level and polarity required to maintain the 450 mV potential difference between the reference voltage circuit and the low reference circuit electrodes and uses this information to change the air/fuel ratio accordingly. This new commanded air/fuel ratio will burn in the engine cylinders, then pass the sensor, entering the exhaust gas sample chamber, and the adjustment process will start again. This process happens extremely quickly and thus makes the wide-range sensor much more accurate, fast, and able to detect greater deviations, rich or lean, from the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio.
If you install a hydrogen generator the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise. The more powerful HHO system you apply the more oxygen will be in the exhaust gas and this will result a fuel lean status accordingly ECU will send more fuel thus actually you will not save fuel despite this was the main reason you installed the H2O system for.
We need to trick the ECU into thinking that the engine is still burning is inefficient within the combustion chamber, by fooling the computer to sense there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is. The amount of modification to the voltage signal is simply adjustable thru the enhancer unit to accommodate different amounts of hydrogen being injected.
Wideband Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer will modify the O2 sensor signal in a 0 ... 50 % range indicating a regular pulsed fuel rich signal to the ECU. This way ECU will reduce the amounts of injected fuel and you can improve the MPG by up to 50 %.
The unit is fully adjustable. EFIE adjuster wires inline between the oxygen sensor and ECU.
EFIE O2 Sensor Adjuster is actually maximizing the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) indicating fuel rich status. While you are injecting HHO gas into the engine you need to lean the air/fuel (gas) mixture if you really want to save gas. if you do not act so engine will work with a mixture with full of gas and HHO, reducing the power and failing MPG enhancement. When you are driving in HHO mode you have to strive to feed the engine by few gas.
The EFIE will help you to get out from closed loop - safe mode by tricking the O2 Sensor signal to the ECU, thus allowing the correct adjustments for various driving conditions to be made. Basically the oxygen sensor inform the ECU on its oxygen readings by delivering an alternating voltage between 0 ... 1 Volt.
In order to adjust this voltage the EFIE adds an adjustable value to that delivered by the oxygen sensor.
This extra voltage compensates for the variation caused by HHO. Adjustments to the trim screw can change the EFIE's voltage correction by 1millivolt. This fine tuning will allow you to reach peak MPG and result incredible economy.
Tests on fuel economy have given an increase of 8-16 MPG but may differ depending on engine, terrains, tire size etc.
Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer adjuster wires inline between the oxygen sensor and ECU. You need to cut only the prior (before the catalytic converter) O2 sensor's signal wire and add +/- 12V to the adjuster. This device does not require a higher degree of skill it has a basic installation can be performed in 20 minutes without any special expertise. If car has one prior and one post oxygen sensor, you have to wire up a EFIE adjuster to the prior sensor only. Two EFIE units will be required for each prior oxygen sensor if dual exhaust installed with two upstream sensors before the cat.
Installation is VERY EASY and universal for each model.
1. Find the signal wire of (prior - upstream) oxygen sensor according to the chart below.
2. Cut the signal wire and contact the purple cable to the o2 sensor side, the yellow cable to the other end.
3. Contact the red wire to the ignition +12V and the black to the ground, chassis or battery negative.
COLOR MATCHING of 5 and 6-wire Wideband O2 sensors
|WIRES of O2 SENSOR|| |
|signal out (Vs)|| |
|sign in (Ip)|| |
|sign in (Vs/Ip)|| |
|heater +|| |
|heater -|| |
|Rcal (optional)|| |
Rcal = laser trimmed calibration resistor only for 6-wire wideband sensors
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Now !!We included our System with
0% SS electrodes.No more cheap SS here.
WE use Pure Titanium & Super Alloy Electrodes.
100% no creating of Hex. Chromium.
These plates are unique in many ways. First off, they create zero corrosion. No rust entering your engine, EVER! No dirty water means no constant maintenance or product tear down. Less time monitoring the device, and more time saving money at the pumps! No more water contamination.
Electrodes made of other materials, such as stainless steel, erode over time. Stainless steel is an alloy containing a minimum chromium content of 10.5%. Because chromium is less noble than titanium & Super Alloy, it ionizes easily and leeches into the electrolyte solution, ultimately becoming a carcinogenic toxin known as hexavalent chromium.Many people in this line of business are not aware that using stainless steel in their hydrogen generators produces a toxin called Hexavalent Chromium in amounts far above the maximum contaminant level set by the EPA. If you would like to learn more about this toxin, we highly recommend that you Google it and see what comes up.
- All Electrodes are made from Aerospace Titanium & Super Alloy
- search for the corrosion resistance grade
- http://www.nyk.co.jp/en/products/alloys/nickel/ni201.html for the Nickel Super alloy we use.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium for Titanium
- The electrodes are industrial strength and should insure years of usage.
- HHO Output : While many people are concerned about exact LPM, our focus is all about efficiency and results. We have found a fine balance between amperage, temperature and production of HHO that yields excellent results, without ever upsetting the vehicles air to fuel ratio. While we may not guarantee LPM, we do guarantee results!
- Higher Hydrogen to Oxygen ratio than only stainless steel units.
- Running Temperature :less than 50 Celsius degree when the whole system is installed properly.Low heat is essential to consistent results, and our system is intended Below 50 Celsius degree .Again thank to our custom made hho cooler.And the Drycell further enhance it efficient by our professional PWM.
- You will never need to worry about creating Hexavalent Chromium because We do not use stainless steel for electrodes plates .
- The water will remain crystal clear.
- All you need to do is add our water/catalyst solution.
- Works on 95% of the vehicles.
- The use of industrial strength exotic metals insures you a unit that will outlast any Stainless steel Drycell units being sold on the market today, without the hassle of regularly flushing and cleaning the system. The Titanium Pro H2 EX Drycell kits we make come with an added reservoir that only needs to be checked periodically .Normally you need just refill the distill water when you on time of refill the fuel for your car. Our experience has shown that minimum time between flushes and refills new drycell electrolyte solution is about 50000 km depending on driving habits.We recommended not more than 100000 km to change the electrolyte (just like an oil change, maintenance is necessary to keep your hydrogen generator in optimum performance mode
Saturday, April 3, 2010
10 gauge: 0-8 amps
8 gauge: 9-20 amps
6 gauge: 21-35 amps
4 gauge: 36-55 amps
2 gauge: 56-65 amps
Monday, March 22, 2010
It is possible to increase (increase air / fuel ratio) using this small metal part called “oxygen sensor spacer ”.(Not all car can use o2 spacer,some car may not benefit from it,and can try simple EFIE ,you can either duplicate one yourself or buy it)
A removal of the oxygen sensor from a direct contact with the exhaust gases to a farther place, where the oxygen reading will be reduced using the spacer.
The bigger the L size the less oxygen the sensor will “feel”. The result is: the car computer will order to inject less fuel and the combustion will be leaner.
This method isn’t working for all cars but many people still got excellent result using this part together with hho drycell system.
The spacer is affordable part and it is worth a try before installing more expensive system such as other ecu tuning system such as EFIE.
Cooling period of 5~6 hours is need before you install the spacer to car exhaust manifold if you have run the car warm.
1)screw out the oxygen sensor using a 18 mm wrench. When the sensor is out don’t touch it’s head no matter how dirty it is.
2)screw the sensor into the spacer part (once again beware damaging the head)
3)screw the spacer combined with the sensor into the sensor’s place on the exhaust manifold.
4)activate your booster and take a test drive to check fuel consumption.
A)My recommendation is to get two spacers : First time make a test run with one spacer, second time try it with two spacers connected in-
B) Notice not to run your engine using the Spacer part without the Hydrogen booster. A lean combustion without Hydrogen addition could hurt the engine.
C) If your oxygen sensor is close to his death (worked for 35000 Miles or more ) there is a probability that the extraction will finish it’s life due to the stress. In this situation it is recommended to prepare a new sensor and install it with the Spacer part instead of the old sensor. Old or bad sensors have negative effects on the engine and they make your car to use more fuel than necessary.
D) If your car have 2 sensors between the engine and the catalytic converter, it is necessary to install one (or two) spacer(s) on each sensor.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Start saving money on fuel cost today with our HHO generators and by following these useful driving tips.
- Curb road rage. Speeding, rapid acceleration (jackrabbit starts), and rapid braking can lower gas mileage by 33% at highway speeds. Drivers can save up to 90 gallons of gasoline, or up to $210, by driving sensibly on the highway. If you don't have a "lead foot," your savings may be closer to 10% at highway speeds – about $65
- Drive sensibly. Around town, sensible driving can save 5% – up to 17 gallons of gasoline and up to $40.
- Cut Miles. If you can cut your vehicle miles traveled by just 5% through combining trips, walking, biking, or taking public transportation, you can save up to $70 per year on gasoline costs. Walking and biking are good for your health too!
- Choose the Right Vehicle. If you own more than one vehicle, drive the one that gets better gas mileage whenever possible. If you drive 12,500 miles a year, switching 10% of your trips from driving a vehicle that gets 20 mpg to one that gets 30 mpg will save you almost $50 per year.
- Turn Down the Air. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce mpg by 5 – 25% compared to not using it.
- It‘s a ”drag.“ Avoid carrying items on your vehicle‘s roof. A loaded roof rack or carrier increases weight and aerodynamic drag, which can cut mileage by 5%. Place items inside the trunk whenever possible to improve your fuel economy.
- Ditch "junk in the trunk." An extra 100 pounds in the trunk cuts a typical vehicle‘s fuel economy by up to 2%. You can save up to 12 gallons of gasoline per year – almost $30 – by removing an extra 100 pounds of unneeded items from the trunk.
- Decrease Your Speed. Speeding costs! Gas mileage usually decreases rapidly above 60 mph. Each five miles per hour over 60 mph is like paying an additional 24 cents per gallon for gas.
- Avoid idling. Idling gets 0 mpg. Vehicles with larger engines typically waste even more gas while idling than vehicles with smaller engines.
- Combine errands/trips. If you combine errands into one trip, you drive fewer miles and use less fuel. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer, multipurpose trip when the engine is warmed up and efficient.
- Use Overdrive Gear. If available, use your vehicle‘s overdrive gear to reduce engine speed, which will enable you to save gas and reduce engine wear.
- Use Cruise Control. Cruise control cuts fuel consumption by maintaining a steady speed during highway driving.
- Consider other transportation options. Investigate options for getting to work and other places – public transportation, carpooling, biking, walking, or ridesharing when possible. Drivers who switch to other alternatives to get to work might be able to get a vehicle insurance premium discount because typically rates are assigned based on how far you drive to work. The commuting discount applies at any time – while many other discounts apply only when buying a new vehicle.
- Carpool. Using the average U.S. work commute of 12.1 miles, commuters could save about $180 a year by carpooling twice a week with two other people in a vehicle that gets 20.1 miles per gallon – assuming the three passengers share the cost of gas.
- Motorcycling. Motorcycles average 56 mpg—and motor scooters do even better. For one person or even two, motorcycles or scooters clearly use far less energy than a vehicle with one or two people. If four people need to go somewhere, they are better off in a vehicle that gets 30 mpg than on two motorcycles that get 56 mpg.
- Telecommute or Stagger Work Hours. If your employer permits, avoid sitting in traffic and wasting gas, especially during peak rush hours. A worker who telecommutes twice a week would save about $275 a year in gasoline costs.
- Request the Right Rental. Request a vehicle that gets better fuel economy, and remember to fill up the tank before returning the vehicle to the rental company, which charges much higher gas prices – and perhaps even an extra gas surcharge.
- Buy Smart. When buying a new or used vehicle, think high gas mileage. Check out the U.S. Department of Energy's Web site or look for a SmartWay© certified vehicle on EPA's Green Vehicle Guide for information on fuel-efficient vehicles.
- Inflate Your Tires. Keeping your tires properly inflated is simple and improves gas mileage by around 3%, saving up to 20 gallons of gasoline, or up to $45.
- Tune up. Fixing a vehicle that is noticeably out of tune or has failed an emissions test can improve its gas mileage by an average of 4% – saving up to 25 gallons of gasoline and about $55. Fixing a faulty oxygen sensor can improve mileage by as much as 40% – saving up to 245 gallons of gasoline or up to $570.
- Check and replace air filters regularly. Replacing a clogged or dirty air filter keeps impurities from damaging the inside of your engine – though in newer model vehicles it does not improve fuel efficiency.
- Select the right oil. Using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil can improve gas mileage by 1 to 2%, resulting in annual savings of up to $30. Motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol contains friction-reducing additives. Also, change your oil to extend the life of your vehicle and to save even more money. And remember to recycle used oil which, with proper controls, can be safely re-used as a fuel or re-refined back to a lube oil.
Money Saving Vacation Gas Tips
Whether your vacation plans include a road trip or flying then renting a vehicle, how you drive and maintain a vehicle can either increase or decrease a vehicle's fuel efficiency and your gas costs. You can start saving money on gas even before you are on the road with a little planning and basic maintenance tips.
- Planning your vacation:
- Choose the right vehicle. If you own more than one vehicle, drive the one that gets better gas mileage if possible.
- Request the right rental. If you are renting a vehicle at your destination, request a vehicle that gets better fuel economy, and remember to fill up the tank before returning the vehicle to the rental company, which charges much higher gas prices – and perhaps even an extra gas surcharge.
- Are we there yet? Getting lost while driving in unfamiliar areas could lead to an expensive waste of gas. Resources on the Drive $marter Challenge website can help your family print a customized vacation map that highlights low cost gas along your route.
- Rise and shine! When possible drive during off-peak hours to reduce gas costs and stress by avoiding stop and go or bumper-to-bumper traffic conditions.
- Consider other transportation options. Investigate options for getting around on your vacation— public transportation, biking, walking, or ridesharing when possible.
- Motorcycling. Motorcycles average 56 mph—and motor scooters do even better. For one person or even two, motorcycles or scooters clearly use far less energy than a vehicle with one or two people. If four people need to go somewhere, they are better off in a vehicle that gets 30 mpg than on two motorcycles that get 56 mpg.
- Before You Leave: Maintenance Tips
- Inflate your tires. Keeping your tires properly inflated is simple and improves gas mileage by around 3%.
- Select the right oil. Using the manufacturer’s recommended grade of motor oil, including re-refined motor oil, improves gas mileage by 1 to 2%, resulting in annual savings of up to $30. Motor oil that says “Energy Conserving” on the API performance symbol contains friction-reducing additives. Also, change your oil as recommended to extend the life of your vehicle and remember to recycle the used oil which can be re-refined, saving even more energy.
- Tune up. Fixing a vehicle that is noticeably out of tune or has failed an emissions test can improve its gas mileage by an average of 4%.
- While On The Road: Driving Tips
- Decrease your speed. Speeding costs! Gas mileage usually decreases rapidly above 60 mph.
- Use cruise control on highways. Cruise control cuts fuel consumption by maintaining a steady speed during highway driving.
- It’s a “drag.” Avoid carrying items on your vehicle’s roof. A loaded roof rack or carrier increases weight and aerodynamic drag, which can cut mileage by 5%. Place items inside the trunk whenever possible to improve your fuel economy.
- Turn down the air. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce mpg by 5 – 25% compared to not using it.
- Avoid idling. which gets 0 mpg. Vehicles with larger engines typically waste even more gas while idling than vehicles with smaller engines.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Whats so special about Titanium?
These new Titanium Substrate HHO Cells produce a more pure form of HHO gas. Also, unlike Stainless Steel, Titanium will not leach hexavalent chromium during electrolysis, which has been a major concern for HHO enthusiasts from the beginning.
Chromium ions in the HHO gas of Stainless Steel act to accelerate the decay of orthohydrogen to para-hydrogen. Orthohydrogen is 4x more reactive than para-hydrogen. Titanium cells make no chromium ions or other ions. That is why the HHO gas from a Titanium Cell is more reactive.
Yes of course we knew that there are people using the MMO coating Titanium plates,however in a Titanium HHO Cell, the Cathode CANNOT be MMO coated! The cathode must remain bare titanium only, the coating will come off during electrolysis. Only the anode requires MMO Titanium Substrate material.However the coating may still come out from anode after long time of usage,yes it last for long time but still come out. This is the reason why people have experienced problems with their MMO Titanium HHO Cells having a very short life span especially there using high Amp.
And there is few information about that Pure titanium if not MMO coating CANNOT use as anode. Yes! The pure titanium plates cannot use as the anode ,IT block current.You were never believe it until you try it .WHY? This was because of the oxidization on the anode .Anode produce Oxygen when use the Titanium the a thin layer of Titanium Oxide were built up due to the oxidization.And this Titanium Oxide were block the current .The Amp drop immediate to nun just after few seconds we start the drycell.
At the end of days we decide to use expensive Nickel Super Alloy as the anode & neutral plates & the Pure Titanium for the cathode .
New Titanium Pro H2 EX cells include: no metal breakdown, which means the water stays perfectly clear, and the units seem to take less HHO gas to get the same results as a standard stainless steel cell using larger volumes.
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Q: What exactly is HHO gas
A: HHO, also known as Brown's Gas or Hydroxy, is produced when we separate water into 2 parts of Hydrogen and 1 part Oxygen (2 Hydrogen 1 Oxygen), by using electricity from the car's battery.
Q: How does it work?
A: In the unit plates of metal electrodes(Super Alloy & Titanium) are immersed in water. When electricity is introduced to one plate it travels through the water to the opposite plate. In doing so the water breaks down into its component parts which are hydrogen and oxygen or HHO
Q: What type and size of engine does it work on?
A: This works on any combustion process, so size in this case does not matter
Q: How long has the technology been around?
A: This technology has been used in cars since the 1930’s
In those times the fuel was very crude and the engines consumed a lot of the lubricating oil. This caused the combustion process to be so dirty that it was common to take the spark plugs out regularly, in order to clean the residues off them.
The early hydrogen generator allowed this poor quality of fuel to be burned more completely, same as today, which stopped the plugs from being fouled.
Q: How safe is it and what are the safety features?
A: It is as safe as water as that is where the hydrogen and oxygen is stored. Once released it is immediately consumed by the engine. When the engine stops the unit stops producing hydrogen. Water is a lot safer than petrol, diesel, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid etc
Q: How efficient is the combustion process?
A: When this product is used the combustion process becomes much more efficient and more power is produced from the same quantity of petrol or diesel. This allows the engine to operate more cleanly, cooler and more efficiently
Q: Why is it a good idea to convert your car to an HHO hybrid Car?
A: Because by having an HHO hybrid Car, you will be able to:
1. Increase your fuel efficiency by 25-30% on average and save thousands of pounds on fuel every year
2. Improve efficient burning of fuel and greatly reduce engine clatter and carbon deposits
3. Reduce emissions and discharges and help in the fight against Global Warming
4. Greatly enhance your engine's performance
5. Reduce the vibration and enjoy a smoother engine operation
6. Prolong the life expectancy of your engine and transmission.
Q: Why is our Hydroxgas DryCell the best?
A: The materials used are the best that can be sourced and the design of unit overcomes any electrical edge losses that appear to be inherent in inferior designs. Thousands of hours of research have been put in to the product to produce the most efficient, reliable and best value for money product on the market, since its launch in the global market.New series had futher enforce construction by FRP resin.
Q: Will this system damage my engine?
A: By following our installation instructions it will not harm the engine in any way. In fact it will clean it and improve its performance and smoothness of power flow, this also benefits the transmission.
Q: How hard is it to install this system? Is it transferable?
A: It is very easy to assemble and install our fuel economy device on your car and you can install this apparatus at home. The device can also be transferred to the next vehicle you own. Full instructions are supplied, if you have any difficulty a local mechanic will be able to fit this device in about an hour.
Q: Will the unit cause any corrosion in my engine?
A: No, any water that is produced during the combustion process is in vapour form due to the high temperatures and is merely released through the exhaust
Q: Does the unit work with fuel injection as well as carburettors
A: Yes and the computers on modern cars are self -adjusting and even the older types of computer will eventually learn to allow for the higher-octane fuel the hydrogen produces. This can take up to five tanks of fuel.
Q: What type of electrolyte is best to use?
A: We have found from our experience that the best electrolyte is KOH Potassium hydroxide.
This chemical is not consumed during the process of hydrogen production which means that only distilled water needs to be added in order to top up the unit.
Another effect is that no dangerous residues are produced which would have to be disposed of.
Q: Is the unit a modification of the car
A: The cell is not a modification, it is an addition and as such has no effect upon any guarantees. In the USA this was established in a court case called the Moss Magnusm act.
Q: What servicing is required
A: A weekly check on the quantity of distilled water in the cell at first, to check that the cell is functioning, as it should, then a monthly top up should be sufficient. In the case of a commercial operation we offer a supporting service contract or it can be done in house. Regular maintenance will ensure optimum running of the cell assuring the operator of the maximum savings for the fleet of vehicles.
Q: Is this device explosive.
A: Very glad to say NO to that question, with this device the hydrogen is created as you drive and is not stored in the vehicle except as water, which is a lot safer than many of the liquids stored in our cars and trucks.However HHO gas was highly explosive that the output air line should keep away from flame & ignition.The system were very safe & add safety to car if install correctly.
Q: What if I lose economy after a period of time
A: The answer will be to check that there is enough liquid in the cell and that there is an electrical supply. A simple amperage test can establish exactly what energy is being consumed and this will tell at what rate the cell is operating.
Q: What do I do if the cell freezes in the winter?
A: A small amount of denatured alcohol can be added, around 5% will protect to about ten below. The unit will not be harmed by freezing and will simply thaw out once it starts to work.
Q: What are the issues for Insurance?
A: If you are concerned about the impact on insurance we recommend you contact your insurance company. The salient factors to note are:
- It is an accessory: an add on to the fuel system
- It is completely reversible as there are no permenant changes to the vehicles settings or performance
- It is safe as it does not store hydrogen but creates it steadily from water stored in a small reservoir as the engine is running
- The fuel economy device operates by giving more complete combustion of the fuel, thus causing the engine to use a smaller amount of fuel for a given performance, resulting in an improvement in fuel economy and a smoother operation of the engine.
- It does not change the configuration of the engine
- It is not a modification but an after market 'add on'
We will continue to upload relevant information to this page in order to keep you abreast of developments in this area and how to get the best from your fuel economy cell.